Choosing the right size is the first (and most important!) step before you start making your project. It will ensure the best fit out of the package, and save you some frustration down the road.
Taking Measurements
Always start each new sewing project by confirming your body measurements. The most important ones to take are high bust, full bust, waist, and hip. You can find directions for how to take accurate body measurements here. To find your sewing cup size (which is not the same thing as your bra size), subtract your high bust measurement from your full bust measurement. Every inch equals a cup size, so 1 inch = A cup, 2 inches = B cup, 3 inches = C cup, etc). Your cup size will tell you what size range to choose, and whether or not you may need to make a full bust adjustment.
Once you have your measurements, compare them to our size chart here or in your pattern instructions, and try to find the closest size to your own. It is completely normal to have measurements in more than one size. Depending on the pattern, you may need to grade between sizes to get the best fit out of the package. Instructions on grading between sizes can be found here.
Choosing a Size Range
Since there are some overlapping sizes between our two ranges, you may be wondering which one to choose if you have measurements that place you in both. The main difference between the two size ranges is that the 14-32 range is drafted for larger busts with a more pear-shaped lower body. The 0-20 size range is drafted for a B cup (2-inch difference between full and high bust), while the 14-32 size range is drafted for a D cup (4-inch difference between full and high bust).
Therefore, choose a size range based on your cup size. Smaller busts should choose 0-20, and larger busts should choose 14-32. If you are making bottoms (where your bust size is irrelevant) choose the size range that best meets your waist-to-hip ratio. Our 0-20 range has a 9" difference between waist and hip. Our 14-32 range has a 10" difference.
When to Make a Full Bust Adjustment
If you are larger busted, the most important pattern adjustment you need to learn is the full bust adjustment (FBA). Once you've chosen your size range, you need to determine if an FBA is necessary. If you are sewing something in our 0-20 range and have more than a 3" difference between high and full bust, you will most likely require an FBA, especially for close-fitting garments. If you are in the 14-32 range and have more than a 5" difference between high and full bust, you will need to make an FBA as well.
- FBA for Kelly Anorak
- FBA for Kalle Shirtdress (helpful for any pattern that doesn't have a bust dart)
- FBA for Clare Coat
- FBA for Elodie Dress
- FBA for Pauline Dress
- FBA for Simone Slip Dress
- How to make a Small Bust Adjustment
Please visit our Size Charts page for further instructions on finding your size. If you are making the Sophie Swimsuit and need help choosing your cup size, please check out this blog post.